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Blogging with a Wraparound Velcro Band

I became a blogger without realizing it. Accidentally. It was 1996 and I’d snagged a cool email address, something quite inspiring and sexy along the lines of 1013303213@compuserve.com. I was heading off into the big wide world of Africa for six months but being bad at math I would be gone more than three years. As a…

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Desert: A Sahara Night

The stars hang like an unfinished choreography, dancers suspended in mid-air. The North Star sits straight above – or is it Venus? It would land on my forehead if it fell. The space between each speck of light is deep navy, the kind of blue that exists only when light is absent and here, in the…

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The Scents of the Fez Medina

How can you even begin to understand the Fez medina, a walled city that has 9000 streets, 10,000 shops, a million people and is nearly a millennium old? Confusion sets in with an early-morning walk through the twisted streets of Fes el Bali, the largest of the city’s two medinas. The sweetness of sandalwood and cinnamon…

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Porto Antico, Genoa – Revisited

My two earliest memories of Genoa’s port area – the Porto Antico – involve sailors, and an amazing green sauce poured over pasta. Decades later this maritime city still bursts with sailors, and the aroma of pesto pulls you into the many tiny eateries dotting the docks. In the Genoa seaside of my childhood, come…

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Santiago de Compostela: My One-Hour Camino

While I can’t claim to have walked the Camino, I can certainly confirm I have walked on the Camino. For an entire hour. I wonder whether I should have walked at all… I was a tourist, not a traveler, a sightseer, not a participant, a voyeuse in a way, or to put it more kindly,…

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