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People and Places

Tuktoyaktuk: The Road to the Arctic is Now Open

The Canadian Arctic extends its endless tundra until it reaches the sea, a jumble of snow and ice in winter and permafrost in summer, punctuated by the occasional Inuvialuit settlement dedicated to hunting or fishing, with a smattering of government officials or oil workers. The most far-flung are so distant they are forgotten for months…

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Susie of Arabia: From Florida to Jeddah

Susie of Arabia

A former police officer and travel industry professional, Susie Khalil’s American life changed dramatically in 2007 when she followed her Saudi Arabian husband back to his homeland – and she has lived there ever since. Her award-winning blog Susie’s Big Adventure was once banned – it sheds some light in life in one of the…

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10 Experiential Adventures in Kyrgyzstan

Most countries have a list of “sights” – see this, see that, move on. Kyrgyzstan is different: you can see it, of course, but you really should experience it, putting all your senses into play and delving into the country like you would into a luscious cake. Yet it’s not a destination that comes naturally. It isn’t that simple…

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The Magic of Lake Song Kul, Kyrgyzstan

Imagine an immense steppe. A sparkling crystal lake. Rough snow-capped mountains in the distance. Scattered yurts, horses running wild. If your eyes happen to be seeing this, you’ll know you’re at Lake Song Kul, Kyrgyzstan’s second largest lake – for me, its most beautiful by far. (The largest is Lake Issy-Kul.) Lake Song Kul’s beauty isn’t a pleasure…

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The Mysteries of Khiva, Uzbekistan

When the lights go off at night and the streets are swept clear of day-trippers, what’s left are 2500 years of walls and dust. Inching along paving stones I might once have shared with camel caravans on the Silk Road, I round a corner lit only by stars, nearly expecting a brigand to swipe me with his…

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A Solo Woman’s 3-Week Central Asia Itinerary

For the past month, I’ve been traveling solo through Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan and posting my travels to Facebook (starting with this post on Day 1). Many of you have asked for itinerary details and specifics. So quickly, briefly, here they are. Welcome to my three-week Central Asia itinerary. Any woman traveling on her own can do…

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Carouge, Geneva’s Alter Ego?

Like siblings who can either be in synch or at odds with one another depending on the minute, Carouge teases Geneva by being so close, yet so distinct. To Geneva’s solid tradition Carouge serves up rebellion, thumbing her nose at the broody burghers of Calvin’s city. And if your first approach to Geneva seems a bit severe, along comes…

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My Perfect Hour in Venice

The shrillest sound of early morning Venice is no sound at all. As I slide across the cobblestones, my rubber soles grip the alleys, sticky but silent. The sun and the moon are invisible, in that tiny wedge of time when dawn is darkest and daytime about to announce itself. Even the motorized vaporetti boats have taken a break…

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