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Posts by Leyla Giray Alyanak

Tuktoyaktuk: The Road to the Arctic is Now Open

The Canadian Arctic extends its endless tundra until it reaches the sea, a jumble of snow and ice in winter and permafrost in summer, punctuated by the occasional Inuvialuit settlement dedicated to hunting or fishing, with a smattering of government officials or oil workers. The most far-flung are so distant they are forgotten for months…

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Susie of Arabia: From Florida to Jeddah

Susie of Arabia

A former police officer and travel industry professional, Susie Khalil’s American life changed dramatically in 2007 when she followed her Saudi Arabian husband back to his homeland – and she has lived there ever since. Her award-winning blog Susie’s Big Adventure was once banned – it sheds some light in life in one of the…

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2017 – Where Did You Go?

As the wind whistles down the mountain and the few remaining leaves are whipped off their branches, it’s time to order the holiday fowl. This year, it’ll be a Bresse chicken, the softest, most tender bird one can find in France. Or, as the French would have it, in the world. Is it only me…

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Ten Years of Women on the Road

I was 30,000 feet above the Sahara when I saw her. Plodding in the opposite direction, she had wild red hair and was bent over with the weight of a heavy backpack. I blinked and looked again and she was gone. She had been in my mind only. But she looked uncannily like me. A life of…

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10 Experiential Adventures in Kyrgyzstan

Most countries have a list of “sights” – see this, see that, move on. Kyrgyzstan is different: you can see it, of course, but you really should experience it, putting all your senses into play and delving into the country like you would into a luscious cake. Yet it’s not a destination that comes naturally. It isn’t that simple…

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2016 – The Year That (Almost) Scared Me

I finally finished this year-end post around two in the morning… And then I hit DELETE. Its original title was “2016 – The Year That Scared Me.” But then I qualified it because it did have a few delightful interludes. Let’s face it, it has been a scary year. Trump was incomprehensibly elected to the US presidency,…

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The Magic of Lake Song Kul, Kyrgyzstan

Imagine an immense steppe. A sparkling crystal lake. Rough snow-capped mountains in the distance. Scattered yurts, horses running wild. If your eyes happen to be seeing this, you’ll know you’re at Lake Song Kul, Kyrgyzstan’s second largest lake – for me, its most beautiful by far. (The largest is Lake Issy-Kul.) Lake Song Kul’s beauty isn’t a pleasure…

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The Mysteries of Khiva, Uzbekistan

When the lights go off at night and the streets are swept clear of day-trippers, what’s left are 2500 years of walls and dust. Inching along paving stones I might once have shared with camel caravans on the Silk Road, I round a corner lit only by stars, nearly expecting a brigand to swipe me with his…

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